If you’ve ever found yourself mid-project, staring at a pile of fasteners with one nut missing and a handful of extra washers, you’ve probably asked yourself: Can I use a washer instead of a nut? As a washer supplier who’s answered this question dozens of times over the past 12 years, I get why the confusion happens. Fastener components—washers, nuts, bolts—all look like small, simple parts, but each has a specific job. Mixing them up might feel like a quick fix, but it can lead to big problems down the line: loose connections, stripped threads, even structural failures on projects you’d never expect. Let’s break this down, from how each part works to when a washer might (and might not) stand in for a nut. Washers
First, let’s get clear on what each part does, because that’s where the lines get blurred. A nut is a internally threaded fastener designed to mate with the external threads of a bolt or stud. Its primary job is to create a clamp load when tightened: as you turn the nut down the bolt, the threads pull the two connected components together, creating friction that keeps the whole assembly from moving. Without that clamp load, even the tightest bolt will shift under vibration, heat, or weight.
A washer, on the other hand, is a flat (or sometimes shaped) disc with a central hole. The most common types—plain washers—have two key jobs: first, to distribute the load of the nut or bolt head across the surface of the connected material, preventing it from digging into soft surfaces like wood or thin metal. Second, they can act as a spacer or a locking component (lock washers do this specifically). But a plain washer has no internal threads. It slides freely over a bolt, and without a nut to grip the threads, there’s nothing to stop it from spinning off—no matter how tight you think you’ve pushed it.
I’ve seen this play out firsthand on a small deck project a customer brought to me two years ago. A weekend warrior named Mike came into my shop panicking; he’d finished building his backyard deck, only to realize he’d forgotten 12 deck nuts and his project was due that weekend. A friend told him he could just stack two fender washers (the big, flat ones meant for large surface areas) and tighten them down with his socket wrench. He did it, finished the deck, and invited friends over for a cookout three days later. By the end of the night, half the railings were wobbly. The washers had spun off the bolts, the wood brackets had pulled loose, and he had to rebuild three sections before the next weekend. That’s the kind of mistake that makes us fastener nerds shake our heads—all because someone thought a washer could do a nut’s job.
But before we write off the idea entirely, there’s a narrow set of circumstances where a washer can technically perform a nut-like function—though it’s not a substitute, and it’s only for very specific, low-stakes jobs. Let’s talk about jam nuts, because they’re a type of nut designed to lock against another nut. Wait, but what if you don’t have a nut at all? In some non-critical applications, like hanging a small shelf bracket on a drywall anchor, or securing a low-pressure garden hose fitting, you can use a thick, rigid washer as a makeshift stop. Here’s how: drill a hole slightly smaller than the bolt’s diameter, thread the bolt through one side, slide the washer onto the bolt from the other side, and bend the end of the bolt over with a hammer until it clamps the washer against the material. This works because you’re deforming the bolt’s end to hold the washer in place, rather than relying on threads. But this is only for jobs where there’s almost no vibration, no moving parts, and very little weight. I’d never recommend this for anything structural, though—no shelf that holds more than 10 pounds, no bike part, no vehicle component.
The biggest mistake people make when trying to use a washer instead of a nut is forgetting about thread engagement. A nut requires at least three full threads engaged with the bolt to create enough clamp load and prevent stripping. A washer has zero threads, so even if you could thread it (you can’t, unless you drill and tap it, which is a whole other project), it wouldn’t grip. I’ve had customers try to hack a washer by running a tap through the central hole to make their own internal threads—don’t do this. Tap a washer wrong, and you’ll create weak threads that strip instantly. Even if you get it right, the metal of a washer is thinner than a nut, so it can crack under torque when tightened.
Another common scenario: people mix up lock washers with nuts. A helical spring lock washer is designed to create friction between the nut and the connected part, to keep the nut from spinning loose. It doesn’t replace the nut—it works with it. A split lock wedge lock washer uses tension and a wedge to resist rotation, but again, it’s a supplement, not a replacement. I once had a construction foreman tell me he’d used a lock washer in place of a nut on a steel beam connection, saying “it’s got spring tension, so it’ll hold.” That project was inspected three weeks later, and the connection failed the load test. The inspector marked it for immediate repair, and the foreman had to take half the beam apart to fix it—costing him $15,000 in downtime and replacement parts. That’s the kind of cost that makes choosing the right fastener worth every penny.
Now, let’s talk about when you might accidentally (or intentionally) end up with a situation where a washer is used like a nut, and how to do it safely if you ever find yourself in a pinch. Let’s say you’re on a job site, no nuts available, and you have to make a temporary fix. First, this should only be a temporary solution—plan to replace it with a proper nut as soon as possible. Second, use the thickest, most rigid washer you have: a fender washer or a heavy structural washer, not a thin plain washer. Third, the bolt should be at least twice as long as the material you’re clamping, so you have enough thread protruding to bend over once the washer is in place. Here’s the step-by-step, for what it’s worth: 1. Slide the bolt through the first component and the washer from the back side. 2. Use a wrench or pliers to hold the bolt head steady. 3. Thread the protruding end of the bolt into a pre-drilled, tapped hole in the opposite component (not just pressing it against the surface). If there’s no tapped hole, you’ll have to deform the bolt, as I mentioned earlier: clamp the protruding end in a vise, bend it over 90 degrees with a hammer, then bend it flat against the washer. This will create a sort of makeshift head that holds the washer in place. But again, this is not a permanent fix. For a permanent solution, even a standard hex nut costs a few cents, and it’s engineered specifically for this job—there’s no reason to skip it.
As a washer supplier, I see customers get frustrated when they have extra washers and not enough nuts, especially on small jobs. I get it—no one wants to run to the store for a single nut, especially if it’s raining or they’re in a time crunch. But here’s the thing: fasteners are precision parts, each designed for a specific load, environment, and application. A nut is made to withstand torque, distribute clamp load, and grip threads. A washer is made to protect surfaces, distribute load, or prevent rotation. They’re complementary, not interchangeable.
I also want to address a common myth I hear: “Washers and nuts are the same thing, just different sizes.” No. A standard hex nut is 7/16 of an inch wide for a 1/4-inch bolt, with threads cut to exact pitch to match the bolt. A 1/4-inch plain washer has an inner diameter of 1/4 inch, outer diameter of 9/16 inch, and no threads at all. The difference in design is why one works for clamping and the other doesn’t.
Let’s talk about real-world examples to drive this home. If you’re hanging a picture frame on a wall, you could technically use a washer to hold the screw, but the screw is the fastener—no nut required there. If you’re assembling a bicycle handlebar, you need two nuts to clamp the stem to the fork; a washer can go on either side, but you can’t replace the nut with a washer. If you’re building a fence, each bolt that attaches the fence post to the base needs a nut to hold it tight; washers go on the bolt to protect the wood, but the nut is non-negotiable.
The only time a washer can be used in place of a nut is when the load is negligible, the assembly is stationary, and deformation of the bolt is acceptable. Even then, I’d argue it’s not a true “replacement”—it’s a hack. And hacks have a way of turning into permanent fixes when you get busy and forget to go back to them. I once worked with a homeowner who’d used washers instead of nuts on his gate hinges for three years. He didn’t notice until one of the hinges spun off, and the gate fell on his dog. The vet bill was $800, and the gate repair was another $500—all because he tried to save a $0.10 nut.
Now, if you’re reading this and thinking, “I need the right fasteners for my project,” that’s where we come in. As a washer supplier, we don’t just sell washers—we help you choose the right fasteners for every job, whether you’re a weekend warrior working on a small deck or a general contractor building a commercial warehouse. We stock every type of washer you could need: plain washers, lock washers, fender washers, structural washers, even specialty washers for high-temperature or corrosive environments. But we also stock every type of nut: hex nuts, lock nuts, flange nuts, jam nuts, you name it. Because we know that when you need a nut, a washer won’t do.
If you’re mid-project and realize you’re missing a nut, or you’re planning a big job and want to make sure you have all the right fasteners, don’t take the risk of a hack that could cost you time, money, or safety. Reach out to our team to chat through your needs. We can help you calculate how many nuts and washers you need, recommend the right grade for your project (grade 2 for general use, grade 8 for heavy loads), and even get your order to you fast so you can get back to your project without delay.
At the end of the day, fasteners are small, but their impact is huge. Using a washer instead of a nut might seem like a quick fix, but it’s a mistake that can lead to costly damage or injury. Take the extra 60 seconds to grab the right part—your project (and your wallet) will thank you. And if you ever have questions about which fastener to use, we’re here to help.
Hex Head Bolts References
- Fastener Design Manual, NASA Technical Report, 1999.
- ASME B18.2.1: Square and Hex Bolts and Screws, Inch Series, 2020.
- Machinery’s Handbook, 31st Edition, Industrial Press, 2020.
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